Hello.
I want to compete in the Gravity Enduro race next year, so this year I want to be prepared and fitness-driven.
This year’s fitness workout is planned, including cycling, gym and fitness programs for the British Army.
All you need is a bike, but you will spend 500 pounds (about 75 thousand yen) on the frame and rear shock. The wheels, brakes, cranks and handlebars are already aligned, so there is only a frame left. However, since I am a beginner in the world of mountain biking, I am not sure which frame to buy. I’m thinking of a few frames, such as Intense 6.6 2010 (Large) and Specialized pitch pro 2010 (Large).
I also have a 120mm Rockshox Pike fork, but I don’t know if it’s long or strong enough. Can you tell me how to choose a fork, as you can buy it for the cost of this fork and an extra charge of £250? A standard size through bolt is required.
Can you tell me what to choose and what not?
Thank you very much.
With its lower travel geometry, the Specialized Pitch Pro (2010) is more of a trail/XC frame, which is good for enjoyable trails but not the best choice if you’re creating an enduro rig. Prior to purchasing, check the frame’s intended purpose and rear travel. Lower travel and other trail geometry values are displayed on Specialized’s specification page.
Choose a long-travel frame with approximately 150–170mm of rear travel if you want optimal gravity/enduro performance. The previous Intense 6.6 had a downhill bias and a rather lengthy travel (it was sold with about 6.5" travel). For gravity work, it is therefore a superior base than the Pitch.
For current enduro, your 120mm bike is much too short. For strength and rigidity, enduro forks often have a travel of 140–170 mm (150 mm is a usual sweet spot), and they use sturdier 35mm legs and thru-axles. You’ll want a Fox 36 in ~150mm+, a Lyrik, or a Pike in long-travel flavor. Current Lyrik/Fox 36 specifications validate thru-axle and travel requirements.
Look for a used Intense 6.6 or older freeride frame on classifieds, eBay, Pinkbike buy/sell, or local Facebook groups. £500 for frame + shock is tight, but possible on the used market. If purchasing used, make sure the linkage hardware and shock eye-to-eye length and stroke precisely match the frame. (This isn’t a single URL; go through local listings.)
Make sure the frame fits your wheels (27.5" vs. 29"), the style of headset and steering (tapered vs. straight), and the fork axle spacing (15x110 boost vs. older 15x100 or QR). You’ll be stuck if the frame requires a tapered steerer or a particular shock mounting measurement that you can’t readily swap. For the precise model, consult the manufacturer’s handbook or specification paper. Geometry and standards can be verified on specialized and RockShox service pages.
If you choose the Intense 6.6, try to mount it on a 15mm thru-axle modern hub with a 150–160mm fork (35mm stanchions if you can). Fox 36 and RockShox Lyrik are popular options for that strength/travel level. Older Lyrik / 36 forks are available for affordable pricing, but new high-end forks are expensive.
Remember the shock: frames frequently call for a particular stroke and eye-to-eye length. Ask the seller about shock dimensions if they aren’t listed; otherwise, the shock from another bike could not fit. Check the sizes of the mounting hardware and bushings as well. Before making a purchase, download the manuals and specifications listed on the websites of Intense and other brands.
Good for gravity/enduro (longer trip) is Intense 6.6. More trail/XC with Specialized Pitch Pro is not perfect if you want a full gravity setup. Look for 140–160mm forks (Lyrik, longer Pike, Fox 36) as the 120mm Pike is too short. If money is tight, purchase a used Lyrik/36 and a used long-travel frame. Verify that the headset/axle and shock eye-to-eye standards are compatible.
Just be sure that the frame you purchase truly fits your hubs and wheels. It’s simple to make mistakes like purchasing a boost frame and discovering your wheels don’t have boost or being stuck with a strange shock size. Before you give the seller your money, ask for the precise specifications.
Although the 6.6 is a little outdated, it will still function well. You can’t expect the newest and finest for £500, but the geometry won’t be as current (longer reach, steeper seat tubes, and slacker head angles all arrived later). Compared to the Pitch, it will undoubtedly handle racing better.