New controller for colorway electric bicycle is required

I own an electric bike, but the controller failed. The display is S886. The controller has a model number JH34Z3205DZWBT, but no similar controller is found online. At least the same connector configuration is not found.

It is very helpful if you have any information.

Peter

COLORWAY 20-inch electric bike, foldable E-bike, city bike (36V 15Ah detachable battery, 7-step change, 250W motor, unisex adult, with LCD display)

Did you not check the motor, battery and controller connection and control panel? Certainly, if it did not work even when exchanged with another controller, wouldn’t it suggest that the problem is not a controller? What was the full voltage of the battery?

By the way, if the control panel does not start, the problem is due to something other than the controller. This is because the control panel works independently and the controller must have the control panel running in order to operate.

The battery is connected to the controller, but the controller does not take power from their wiring. These wires are directly connected to the motor, but are blocked by the gate. The controller opens and closes the gate and supplies the motor with power from the battery. Wiring branched off from the battery wiring provides power to the S866. If this wire does not have a voltage, the S866 will appear in a suspended state. When the voltage is supplied, the S866 begins operation. After starting operation, the S866 returns the battery voltage to the controller via blue wiring to power the controller. This means that all the functions of the controller are powered only through a S866 that works properly.

Therefore, it is necessary to identify the cause of the S866 not working (possibly power supply shortage). First S866 measure the voltage between red and black lines in the connector. If the voltage is not detected, either battery connection or battery failure.

If the S866 does not operate even if the battery voltage can be measured between red and black lines, the controller can be checked by removing the S866 and short circuit the red and blue lines in the connector. If everything else is fine, the level 1 pedal assist and throttle function should work.

If the S866 does not turn on, the voltage is usually not supplied. Even if it fails, it does not work properly even though it flashes and power goes on.

The motor is very reliable. Even when burned completely, the S866 is connected directly to the battery, so you can check the operating condition. Measuring the voltage of the connector reveals everything.

There is no element inside the controller that causes that phenomenon. Because the wiring is directly connected to the battery inside the controller. The controller merely plays the role of the box surrounding them.

Check the voltage of the main battery wiring (wiring input to the controller) of the connection state. If the voltage is zero, remove the wiring and check if there is a voltage in the cutting state. Nevertheless, if the voltage is not detected, it is necessary to follow the wire to the battery side until it finds the breaking point. If the voltage is normal at the time of cutting, it is due to the short circuit inside the controller (typically burning MOSFET), but since you said you have tried another controller, it is unlikely.

A fuse may be inserted in the circuit or the contact point of the battery pack may simply be dirty. Just connect the battery once when it is turned on, sparks and explosions may occur and contacts may be damaged. Spring type clamps or spade type connectors may be improved by cleaning them with sandpaper and bending them back to their original position using sticks. Avoid using metal tools for obvious reasons.

A thick red and black cable is the power input from the battery to the controller.