These two batteries are identical in exterior. Press the power button for 1 second to turn on both lights.
One was made by EcoE for my EcoE bike, and the other was a battery from the Eskute brand, which was $100 cheaper than mine. My battery doesn’t have a voltage indicator, but I guess it’s 48V because it’s 54V when it’s fully charged (I’ve heard that). On the other hand, the Eskute battery is clearly marked as 48V.
The problem is that the newly obtained Eskute battery stopped after only a moment of starting the bike. After that, I tried voltage measurement and confirmed the position of both power buttons, but no voltage is detected in either state.
Did you break it when you put it on your bike, or is it just not compatible?
We are currently in the process of disassembling the interior to compare it, but work is stalled due to the fear that something will be broken. Before we get started, I’ve posted something to ask you to think about the situation.
Some manufacturers use the same case, but reverse the positive and negative pins. The first thing to check is whether the original EcoE battery still works on the EcoE bike.
Yes. It’s moving. When I get home later, I will check again. I think the fuse inside was blown. Oh, I heard it happened somewhere else. I never thought it would happen
is it possible it doesn’t produce voltage till the bms allows it with the proper bike?
The BMS is equipped with an overcurrent limit function, which shuts off when the limit value is exceeded. It is usually reset when the load is removed or the power switch is switched. Connect the battery charger and try to reset.
Some batteries may have a fuse inside the case. Is it the battery indicator that lights up on the failed battery?
Is the battery showing zero voltage unless there is a load? I’ve never seen anything like that. Although I have seen something that displays zero on the charging port until you connect the charger.
Before you do that, how did the wire polarity check out?
In addition, BMS has implemented electronic handshaking for the bike, and the protocol may be different (battery firmware differences).
If I were a bike manufacturer and I sold my own battery for $100 more, I would. They want customers to buy their own batteries. Not only for profit, but also because they know that their batteries use high-quality cells and materials, while counterfeit products may not.
Well, the new battery doesn’t have any voltage at all, but I don’t know how to check it. Damn it, I didn’t test it and put another battery on my bike. I didn’t realize there might have been a defective product. Maybe I’ve broken the BMS, but still.
All kinds of weird measures have been taken to prevent the use of generic parts.
First, remove the contact block from the battery. If there are contacts other than the power line, you may be requesting a handshake.
#2 - If you have multiple contacts, the power line may not be connected to the correct contacts that are suitable for your bike.
There are only red and black lines. But maybe the genuine battery has what you call a “handshake” wire? I couldn’t reach the block behind the battery. It’s so hard now that I’m trying to get it back and return a new battery.
When you turn on the electric bike and the display lights up, what current is flowing through the battery?
Are you worried that the battery burned just by putting it on your bike and turning on the display?
Both batteries have seven contact slots, but only two are required for power transfer, or four when pairing power/ground. Therefore, the original battery may have an electrical handshake circuit.
But here is a picture showing the end plate of the failed battery. Only red/black wires are connected. Therefore, there should be no electrical handshake circuit on this battery unless there is an electrical pin on the top of the connector. Therefore, without such a circuit, the voltage should be displayed. It does not always work on a motorcycle, but the voltage should be visible.
By the way, when a normal battery is removed from the bike, does the 48V voltage appear on any of the seven pins? As long as you check the pins two at a time, you should be able to measure them with a good voltmeter.
The original battery displays 54 volts and is not connected to the bike. This indicates that no additional circuit is required for startup.
The new battery has no voltage. Either the fuse flew or the BMS failed during the first use. The latter is what I actually experienced with my newly installed BMS. You don’t have to spend any more time analyzing. Check how the dealer will respond.